This very old Hasegawa kit is in fact the very old Frog kit. You can see the original Frog drawing here.... 

I started to make this kit way back in 1971 finishing it in Israeli colours at that time. 

Details in this kit are typical for this period with raised panellines (without the oval maintenance panels on the upper wing) 
decals

Cockpit detailling is not so bad and can hardly be seen. Add the headrest ejector ring from some sprue. 

Problems and errors:
The biggest problem with this kit is the shape of the wing. The trailing edge is 1 mm to deep (the chord being to large) although is can be sanded off and the wing tip made to look correct. The horizontal stabilizer root chord is 4 mm too small at the junction with the fin and 1 mm too small at the tip. 
Also the vertical fin shape is not correct, it's chord being 2 mm too wide at the "root". 
The main wheels are 2 mm too large in diameter  and also add the extra steering rod at the nose undercarriage with some sprue. 
The provided stores are not soo bad but you can replace them with finer parts (from example any of the Fujimi kits). 

slats

Other important details are the slats of the A-4, that are always drooped at the ground. (the only exception being Agressor and Blue Angle aircraft). 
Unfortunately only the Fujimi kits provide the separate slats. A way out of this for the other kits (if you do not make an Agressor or Blue Angel plane) is to install a kind of clip to keep them closed as shown on some pictures. This clip is put on by the ground crew when the A-4 is on the ramp. 

A way of making the separate slats for the majority of kits is... yep... cut them loose from the wings lower and upper parts. Each winghalf has one leading edge slat. They are very fine parts and need careful handling to get them to come off nicely; use a very fine razor saw or a very sharp cutting blade. The gap this is left in the main wing needs to be covered with some card and made flush with some putty and careful sanding.  The slats have 3 guiding tracks each in the leading edge but leave these out until the model is painted and completely finsihed. These smaller tracks are otherwise easily broken off.. This is all quite some work but worth the effort! 

Another important detail on all Skyhawks are the vortex generators on the upper wing slighlty aft and on the slats and leading edges. They could be simulated by cut and shaped Bostich staples cemented with cyano acrylate cement. Most kits have the vortex generators  moulded on and also rough sometimes, if you want to replace them... well good luck! When adding the stars-and-bars, on the upper left wing, use plenty of decal softener to get the decal to drop over these raised details. Another option is to apply the decal, let dry and "cut away" around the raised vortex details. Paint with appropriate colour over the "damaged decal." 

Although this Hasegawa kit has nice decals, I wanted to use a Lady Jessie scheme . The decals used can be seen here ...

The model was finished first in the standard USN scheme. After applying the decals, I added a glos coat of  Johnson Klear. After that, I detailed some panellines (especially the flying surfaces gaps) with some dark paint, but don't overdo it! You can use waterbased paint, Dutch modellers can use Talens H2O and Winsor and Newton als Artisan water mixable color. Use these products only on an acrylic based surface finish like Klear. When Humbrol dull or gloss coats (or similar oil/turps based) have been used,  apply real watercolor paint as available from art and department stores. 

This kit is based on the previous discussed A-4E/F with a separate new trainer aircraft fuselage. You thus get a kit with the same "problems and errors" . This kit was imported from Japan by Hales from the UK at some stage. 

Interior details are rather crude and the seats provided are too wide. I simply cut off the sides, sanded off some plastic off the center part and added the sides back on later. You also than get some "room" for the side instrument panels. 

Markings are special but the dark "Blue Angels" with yellow decals is asking for problems... 

A nice touch in the kit are the two provided canopies (with and without separate windscreen) but the single piece canopy doesn't fit into the rear fuselage fairing.... Use the single piece canopy, it does fit, but cut off the windscreen... 

You can make the delicate canopy framing by using painted... Bare Metall foil... you can get a very good result instead of trying to "hand paint" these delicate lines. Simply paint; cut into strips with a sharp knife and apply. 
In the canopy I also made a 'blind flying screen' with some paper tissue and some fine metal wire. And finally, don't use plain black paint for the interior but very dark grey Humbrol 78 ... looks a lot more convincing! 

The made slats can be seen here 

 TA-4 model of Meindert de Vreeze, in overall white  FS36875; slats were separated from the wing and inner flap upper brake angles upwards! 

Decals used were a set I ran into:  from Scale Master decal nr sm-14 representating a  very nice bi-centennial plane 1976. Check out pictures of this plane on A-4 association site , or search on "www.google.com" with keywords A-4+VT-7 . 

I made this kit with a canopy closed and used Testor model master paint and that works fine. The windscreen was given a transparant blue glow with a blue felt tipped pen / "scriber". 

This variant is also brought to us by the Fujimi series, and these are superior to the Hasegawa offering. 

To  page (4)..